Tuesday 29 May 2018

The Sunshine State

My trip to Bradenton, Florida was planned and booked even before I stepped on American soil. My bestie from childhood had invited me over to spend a few days at her Florida home. I flew into Tampa International Airport on a drizzly Saturday evening and then drove south to Bradenton with my friend and her husband. They are as enthusiastic as I am about travel, food and life in general, so I knew I was in good hands. Enroute, we crossed the picturesque Sunshine Skyway- the ‘flag bridge’ of Florida featured in several movies and commercials over the years. Cutting through the emerald green waters of Tampa Bay, it gave the illusory experience of driving on water. Bradenton itself is strewn with freshwater and saltwater lakes, that you tend to see water just about everywhere.


We chose to stay in that night, warming up to the Florida weather and drinking to the beat of the rain within the comfort of her spacious home. Sunday was action packed – a bright and early start to a longish drive was fuelled by an elaborate American breakfast with freshly squeezed Florida orange juice at the old country-style restaurant chain called Cracker Barrel. We drove past Orlando and Daytona Beach, arriving by noon in Saint Augustine – the oldest continuously occupied European settlement in the United States. Established in 1565 as a Spanish colony, the city still retains the European charm through its pastel-shaded alleyways, grainy woodwork, tapas bars buzzing with live music, and hand painted vintage signboards hanging outside souvenir shops, candy stores and popsicle bars. It is touristy no doubt, but not in an annoying or intrusive way.  


For lunch, we opted for Taberna Del Caballo, a Spanish-American tavern known particularly for their signature cocktails and sangria. While my friends stuck to the St. Augustine mule, I ordered one of their handcrafted drinks going by the name of Sir Francis Drake, the English sailor credited with the serendipitous invention of the world’s first cocktail. It was a delightfully smooth and predictably sweet concoction of New Amsterdam vodka, peach schnapps, pineapple juice and raspberries. Our lunch spread consisting of garlic chicken wings, Cuban sandwich and shrimp chorizo flatbread, was delectable to say the least. The man on the guitar, the yellow flowers on the wooden tables and the happy people cheering to the music perfected the holiday mood for us. 




Ambling along the pretty streets, we spotted Spanish bakeries and quaint little stores selling seashells and colonial goods.  The Cathedral Basilica of Saint Augustine, designated as a national historical landmark, stood at the intersection of the narrow pedestrian streets. Crossing over to the promenade overlooking the Bridge of Lions, we walked up to the Castillo de San Marcos, the oldest masonry fort in the United States that allowed Spain to defend against the English attacks and maintain its stronghold over Florida for many, many years. The star fort is constructed from coquina stone, a type of sedimentary rock formed by the decomposition of seashells. On a side note, we had dinner at an award-winning Vietnamese restaurant called Pho 88 in Orlando. The portions were so huge that some of the pho, banh mi (sandwich) and the vermicelli noodles had to be boxed. 


Another work week had begun. During the day, my friend who is a happy homemaker kept me company while her husband went to work. It is said that when old friends meet, they start exactly where it was left off. There was no dearth of topics to discuss - everything from music and movies to life choices and religious philosophies found their way into our unending conversations. We would chat and cook and Netflix our way into the evenings when the three of us would step out to explore the lesser-known gems of South Florida. Over the course of the week, we visited Sarasota Bayfront, Venice and Siesta Key – each one distinctly embodying the untainted allure of the sunshine state.



Sarasota Bay is a lagoon off the coast of south and central west Florida with inlets from the Gulf of Mexico. The bayfront park is a great recreational spot with art installations, swings and paved walkways looking out to the fleet of yachts tied up to the dock. Near the entrance, stands a giant sculpture of a US Navy sailor sealed in a lip-lock with a young nurse. Titled ‘Unconditional Surrender’, it is part of a sculpture series by Seward Johnson based on a famous photograph taken on Victory over Japan Day in Times Square.




When I visited Venice, it became clear to me why Florida is called Heaven’s Waiting Room. A retirement mecca filled with gated communities providing luxury amenities, Venice is one of those classic locations where you will see happy old grannies and grandpas relishing the last drops of life’s nectar to the hilt. The fishing pier in Venice is popular among anglers and can get crowded in the evenings. What truly blew my mind was the spectacular sunset views from the rocky walkways jutting into the water. The breezy spring of dolphins, the swift swoop of seagulls, the ripples permeating in the water, the ephemeral hues of twilight and the silhouette of the boats in sail – everything came together to create one of the most surreal experiences of nature.



Florida is home to some of the best beaches in the world and undoubtedly, Siesta is one among them. Siesta Key is a barrier island off the coast of Florida and Siesta beach is the jewel in its crown. With 99% pure quartz, the sand is silvery white and cold to the touch while the crystal-clear water sports varying shades of emerald green and aquamarine. Being the beach bum that I am, it was hard not to fall head over heels with something that is touted as the best beach in America (Dr. Beach, 2011, 2017, The Travel Channel, 2004) with the whitest and finest sand in the world (The Great International Beach Challenge, 1987).


Food is the elixir of life and neither of us contested that proposition. During my week-long adventure, we found ourselves savouring some of the cleverest gastronomical inventions ever made, ranging from oriental hibachi at DaRuMa Japanese steakhouse and gourmet burgers at Gecko’s Grill and Pub to Malabar biriyani and Country style chicken fried to perfection in our own kitchen. 


My return was booked on an evening flight the following Saturday. We started early from home and took a brief halt at Saint Petersburg or St. Pete, as the locals would call it. The city’s downtown is youthful and artsy with beautiful walking trails, museums, art galleries, waterfront parks, boutique restaurants and skyscrapers adorning the cityscape. Hard-pressed for time, we settled for a happy Thai lunch and rushed to the airport before the gates closed. Goodbyes are sad but with friends who have become family, you know the distance is only short-lived. 

So that’s my Florida story – no Miami, no Orlando but priceless, nevertheless. I guess my trip was more about being in good company and discovering places recommended by trusted locals rather than mimicking the tried and tested tourist trail. 

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