Nepal - Snow Above, Dust Below

Nepal always sounded exotic to me because my impressions about the country were shaped by the Bollywood classic Hare Rama Hare Krishna, textbook images of Mount Everest and the thrilling narratives of trekking enthusiasts. But I was in for a shock when I finally landed in Kathmandu. Despite the snow-laced mountains towering above the pandemonium of traffic, dust and chaos had driven me insane by the time I arrived at my hotel situated in the heart of Thamel, the immensely popular tourist market in Kathmandu valley. When I entered Thamel, there was a distinct change of scene from what looked like a tier-three Indian city to a hip and happy backpackers' quarter adorned with prayer flags and gleefully lost travelers. Packed with live music bars, watering holes and quaint cafes, Thamel personifies the hippie haven Nepal has always been. The walking streets defined by colorful stalls displaying Tibetan merchandise, Khukhuri knives, Yak wool shawls, thangka paintings, Buddha heads and singing bowls gave a euphoric lift from the starkly contrasting and awfully grubby lanes leading to it. 

The three durbar squares situated a few miles apart from each other, are marked by riveting architectural masterpieces that transport unwary tourists like me to a time and place disconnected from all things familiar. Within minutes you start identifying with that world steeped in antiquity and royal hegemony, even as it seems paradoxical in this day and age. Pashupatinath, the widely revered Hindu temple and the seat of the national deity Shiva, sits quietly on the banks of the Bagmati river as fervent devotees go about performing rites of passage for the deceased. Once you get to Boudhanath Stupa and the guide delivers an enlightening speech on the philosophical premise of Buddhism, you remember that Hinduism and Buddhism have coexisted in the valley for centuries.

An excruciating bus drive away from Kathmandu lies Pokhara - the archetypal party place, the city of lakes and the tourist capital of the nation that serves as a base for trekkers taking the Annapurna circuit. Standing atop Sarangkot hill in Pokhara and watching the first rays of the sun cast a fiery glow to the rugged and snowy sierra, you realize what it is that draws many an adventurous soul to this mystic land. To appreciate the true essence of Nepal, one should set out on one of those grueling yet extremely rewarding treks people rave about - there's no other way to experience the stupefying terrain and the nuanced ethnic diversity. And of course, you have the whole gamut of adventure sports from bungee jumping to paragliding that can stir awake every sleeping cell in the body. The highlight of my trip has to be that moment when I was sinking into my high chair floating above Phewa Lake, teased by the wind for the frivolous lives we lead as humans, as the veteran hands of my trainer tugged at the strings of our glider. 

I have often heard that westerners love India because of its ability to simultaneously excite all bodily senses by its exuberant bursts of color, energy and spontaneity. Even though I felt a lot of spillover effect in this neighbor country, especially in the cultural and culinary aspects, there was something about it that went beyond the sentient factor. The country is still recovering from the catastrophic earthquake of 2015 and its extended period of political instability. It was a mixed bag of surprises for me and I must admit that this trip managed to evoke one of those inexplicable feels of travel. 

Shimla - Tidbits for First-timers

Last Christmas, we went on a short trip to Shimla - the summer capital of British India still flaunting its past glory through its characteristic colonial architecture and European vibes; where heritage buildings and age-old business establishments are stacked together like cardboard boxes on the hills. This post is not about those though. Our trip was quite relaxed and unlike other times, all we wanted to do was laze around in the chill of winter and soak in the vibes of a happy place. So I'm going to pen down some useful information for first-timers - quick tips and recommendations on where to stay and what to eat. As is famously known, Shimla is a madhouse of traffic during peak season. Since we zeroed in on Shimla for our Christmas break knowing all too well that we'd be crawling in a sea of people and vehicles, we came prepared for it. Unfortunately, it hadn't snowed yet when we arrived. So we chose to skip Kufri and Narkanda, opting instead to spend the wintry nights in the quiet and forested hills of Mashobra, and the festive daylight hours in the zippy streets of Shimla. 

First off, if you are not staying on Mall road, you need to get moving in the morning to skip the traffic n find a safe parking spot. We parked our jeep at the parking lot bang opposite the entrance to the lifts leading up to Mall road. They charge a flat rate of Rs. 100 for the first 0-8 hours. If you plan to stay at one of the hotels on Mall road, then you needn't worry too much about parking - just walk out from the top floor and you are there. We couldn't do that because we were traveling with our pet and also, we preferred the calm of Mashobra to the chaos of Shimla to ease into the evenings.

There are quite a few interesting places to eat - from purely local eat-outs to plush, modern cafes. Himachali Rasoi, a little wooden hole in one of the by-lanes serves truly authentic cuisine from Himachal Pradesh. The festive thali meal is called 'Dham' and it comes with an assortment of curries - all made using familiar ingredients but tasting delightfully different from what we are used to in the other parts of the country. There is Embassy bakery, one of the oldest and prettiest bakeries in the city, popular for their apple almond cakes, lamb chops and ice creams. Though overpriced and unconventional in their service, we loved the old man at the counter and his freshly baked cakes. If you fancy a hot plate of gulab jamuns to sweeten your day, head to Baljee's and if you crave for some idli-dosa-vada comfort to beat the cold, try the Indian Coffee House or Nalini. Sher-e-Punjab dishes out scrumptious non-veg delicacies, Dim Sum serves exquisite Chinese and the string of bakeries like Krishna and Trishul have an array of cheap eats for a quick bite. On the other hand, if you want to relish some great continental/Italian food in a chic and classy set-up overlooking the hills, you must visit Cafe Shimla Times, Cafe Sol (Hotel Combermere) or Eighteen71. And while at it, do not forget to grab some local kiwi and strawberries abundantly displayed by the roadside. 

Lastly, on your way back, stop at one of the HPMC stalls and stock up on your hand-crafted fruit preserves, wines, juices and pickles. We got apple juice, peach and strawberry preserves and wild pomegranate mint chutney - all locally produced and just as delicious as their foreign counterparts. And if you still haven't finished shopping for winter wear, try the Monte Carlo factory outlet next to the HPMC booth. Guess what, we totally cashed in on the Buy One Get One offer!